New Project! R69S Motor rebuild

OK!  Let’s switch gears for a bit.  New Project!
Everytime I go on a ride with my pals Adam and Blaise, I always get my doors blown off (figure of speech, of course, since motorcycles do not have doors) because those guys are on fast bikes and I am on a 450 lb Earles forked behemoth powered by two arthritic hamsters with heart murmurs.
So here’s the plan:  I had this R69S  basket case motor just sitting around waiting for the end of the world to come.  But instead of that, the plan is to rebuild the R69S motor — and maybe hot rod it a little bit — and stick it into the R60/2. 
Remove the advance mechanism.    It’s a good idea to check over your advance mechanism to ensure it is working well.  We’ll do that in a later episode.   Remove the high tension leads from the coil.     Remove the two 10mm bolts which hold the coil and points assembly housing.  Remove the entire housing.     Remove the two allen bolts which hold the coil housing.   You can see them here on the housing at noon and six o’clock.

Remove the little door at the top of the motor for the breather and also undo the wiring from the winding housing. Remove the wiring harness.   

Use the special hardened bolt tool to remove the winding and the magneto.
Should look like this now.  Remove the allen bolts which hold the timing cover.  Use a plastic mallet to loosen the cover and remove it. 
Now you can see some gears. 
Remove the rotating breather valve from the cam gear noting the position of the wave washer. 
Rotate the assembly so that you can see the screw heads through the cam gear holes. Use an impact driver to  loosen the screws for the cam bearing housing. 
Remove the screws. 
Lock down the crank.

Use the proper tool to remove the cam assembly. This is a Bunch 355 tool.
Cam, bearing housing, cam.  Take care and do not scratch the cam!
Bend back the locking tab and remove the 14 mm nut holding the aluminum gear. This is a REVERSE thread!
Tap the gear with a plastic mallet to loosen it.  Remove the gear.
Ta da!
Lightly heat the bearing.  Don’t cook it.  You just want it good and warm (about 250′).
Use a screw driver to GENTLY pry the gear up enough so that you can get a bite on it with a gear puller.
Use a gear puller to remove the bearing.
Here’s where we’re at now.
Use the proper tool to remove the crank gear. This is a Bunch 213.
This tool is a bit different than the BMW tool pictured in the factory manual. It has sections that  fit on either side of the gear.
Then a collar which comes down and locks the segments around the gear.
Snug down the collar.

Screw in the bolt and remove the gear.  Put some muscle into it!

Add caption

Once the gear is removed you can see the keyway.

Inspect the woodruff key for any damage. This one looks cherry.

Knock open the tool and remove the gear.

Time to remove the flywhee. Screw in Matra 534 tools. You’re supposed to use three and do every other bolt.  I only have two of these and it works ok, although I recommend using three – it’s easier. 

The clutch — removed.

The spring.

The flywheel!

We will do some more of this project tomorrow!

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